This page is static, though, and only put here for your convenience. Go visit Lundgren's WebSite for his latest observations.
I claim no expertise, and my suggestions here should be taken as such. I'm cannot be help liable for anything that you do to your car because of my inadiquacies. Having said that, I think you'll find these additions and comments a BIG help.
Again these are listed by step as matching the on-line version for the 94+ Integra GS-R.
<comments snipped - go to Lundgren's WebSite for the full story>
Other notes:
The 22mm socket, you may not need it, simple adjustable wrench should do. A solder gun is not required, but I would get one and solder some anyway. The wires carry low voltage currents, and the ends that come with the kit can drain some of this due to the nature of those type of connections. Read the instructions all the way through and then look at the car, following them again. Having the big picture will really help.
Get the car up on jack stands high enough so you can work under the car with no problems, you'll need the space. If you have access to a lift, great I wish I had one. Drain the fluid and let it drain as you start your work. Remove the hood and the upper strut bar.
1,2. No comments.
3. I didn't blow any air in as described, if you don't have an air compressor, don't worry it's not too critical.
4. If you have an aftermarket intake, remove it... this is all it's saying... remove the intake, but not the stock box if you have it.
5. If you have an aftermarket intake, you may not have the double pipes as described.. but again, we are just removing all the intake connections.
6. These wiring harnesses are a pain. You'll learn to love them. The key is remember that they all come apart by pressing in, or pulling a tab apart. Push the tab in to disconnect them apart, or pull the tab to remove a bracket from the mouted steel brace.. as a rule.
7. No comments.
8. I didn't remove mine. It's kind of in the way, but it's not bad.
9. A no-brainer. Look closely to see how it's installed, it will be a couple of days before you install it again, so look closely, but it's easy.
10. No comments.
11. Label your connections.
12. No comments.
13,14. Again, label it.
15. On 96-98, they are just not labelled, but the are the connected hoses.
16,17,18. No comments
19, 20, 21. It will leak, so get a disposable rag to catch the gas.
22. No comments.
23. Label this bolt that will be used later. There are a lot of un-used bolts when you need it again, so mark it.
24. Watch out for fuel
25. After removing the line, I re-installed this bolt. This is the 22mm one, and I just used an adjustable wrench. Notice how the two washers go on either side of the banjo (loop) line. Put them on, then the 22mm bolt, but notice and remember how it goes on.
26. Be-careful with the injectors.
27. I didn't have spacers on my car (1997), but there are some in the kit.
28. Just loosen them, don't need to take them out.
29. After you remove the belt, move the pump as high as you can then tighten it down again. This will make removing the AC belt possible.
30. No comments.
31,31,32,33,34 No comments.
35. Label the bolts or place them in or near the throttle body for a reminder so as to not use them for something else.
36. No comments.
37. Label the valve.
38. No comments.
39. I didn't remove my cat, and I don't think you will have too either.
40. I left my O2 sensor plugged in until later, but this is fine not too but as you may not be removing the cat, it's not nessasary.
41. No comments.
42. It's an L shaped braket, the upper right bolt holds the oil separator box on.
43. Watch out for the o-ring on the box. Pull the box straight out, then down. The connections on the top will pop out, but you may want to have someone up there to help take them out, or take them out before you get under the car.
44,45. This braket is a pain it the but. That's all I have to say about that. It is not re-installed, but some stuff from it is.
46-48. My car (1997) didn't have an oil cooler, so I have no comments.
49,50. The bolts aren't too hard to get off. I had a small socket wrench to use. I used it quite a bit, and this was one of those places.
51. No comments.
52. Label the plug.
53. You will use some parts from it, so don't just literally throw it away, set it asside.
54. Hey your first new part install.
55. This would be a good time to solder rather than using the connections they provide.
56. I used a razor blade to cut along the hose. It doesn't come off easy, but just cut away.
57. No comments.
58. No comments.
59. My lower alternator bolt was on VERY VERY tight. Use a pipe around your socket wrench to give you leverage.
60. I disconnected the wiring from the alternator because I didn't have an impact gun (see step 61)
61, 62. I took it do a local shop and had them swap out the pulley. They didn't even charge me. You must use an impact wrench, I didn't have one.
63. This is easily done from the other side of the car. I had a friend help me bend it. Mine didn't bend as easily as I thought.
64, 65. Remember to take out the spacer to use in the new braket. Then install the new mount with the new spacer for the lower bolt in it.
66. Remember to have previously installed the inside spacer.
67-72. No comments.
73. Make doubley sure that the belts are installed such that the idler pulleys can be utilized, because it would be very hard to change it later.
74-78. No comments.
79. You should have the bolt already labelled.
80-83. No comments.
84. This can be a pain, but it's important to set it up right. See http://www.sponaugle.com/supergsr/installhints.htm for a picture of how this should be done.
85. Incase you didn't get it at first, this IAB switch is on the OLD intake manifold. Just remove it, and put it on then move it out of the way.
86-87. No comments.
88. Mine was hard to get off. I don't know why it's just a couple of screws, but use a clamp wrench on the tops of the screws if you need to, don't strip the screws.
89. My pressure switch came wrapped with tephlon tape already.
90. I would at this point make sure that the alternator belt is tight. It's easy to do it now, and will be a lot harder later. You should have removed all the old gasket material. This may take some time. Simply use a razor blade to assist you along with some gasket remover. Don't get the old gasket stuff into the engine, becareful. When you re-install it, make sure you use a new gasket. Go ahead and install it now, but just put a couple of bolts on first, then test the fit with the SC installed below. Remove the SC (you're just testing the fit here, so just slide it out), then if it's all ok, then tighten the 12 bolts down as described.
91. The by-pass valve does need to be loosen. Make sure you hook it back up before put the SC on. It will be impossible to put it on tight afterward. But for clearance, go ahead and loosen it.
92-94. No comments.
95. By now you should have tested the fit, to make sure the harness is out of the way. I would read ahead to make sure you understand steps 95 - 98 before you apply the sealant. Make sure you've placed it all the way up, and you have someone to help you do this.
96. I didn't lube mine, but you might. Again test the fit, it will make more sense.
97. Placing the allen bolts from the top is kind of a scarry thing because you can see how easy it is to drop them. Try using a magnetic allen wrench for safety. If you've got the guts, just use your regular allen key wrench, then just shove it in fast. Personally I would use the magnetic one.
98. Mine were already wrapped.
99. You should have tested this first, but you should be able to work and move them a little. Any serious space issues should have been resolved during your test fit.
100. Again, mine was already wrapped.
101. No comments.
102. When re-installing the oil-separator box, make sure not to cut the o-ring used. I cut mine, and didn't know it and had a small oil leak. It's easy if someone from the top can help place the PCV valve and the other elbow hose into the top two holes. In case you've forgotton, the red one (PCV) goes toward the passanger side of the box.
103. I had to put the tee on mine.
104-106. No comments, mine didn't have a oil cooler.
108. I think they meant plug the oil plug back in. I had already done this earlier.
109. No comments.
110. I didn't remove mine, so I didn't have to do this.
111-113. No comments.
. I used a new gasket here, you should too.
115-116. No comments.
117. Mine was a 1997, and although it said that 1998's don't have to do it, that also meant late 1997's too.
118. If you have an aftermarket intake, this will be slightly different.
119-120. No comments.
121. See my photo's, but if you labelled everything it shouldn't be a problem.
122. I don't have a 94-95. No comments.
123. This is where the T comes in if you installed it.
124-125. No comments.
126-127. Again, if you have an after market intake, this may not apply or may be slightly different.
128-129. No comments.
130. Again, here I would have done this before the sc was installed since it's kind of a pain now.
131. No comments.
132. Becareful not to cut the o-rings during the install. It's easy to place the injectors into the fuel rail, rather than the fuel rail on the already installed injectors (because they should be already installed to prevent stuff from falling in the engine). You also need to install the rings from the old manifold to the new one. This is obvious, but I thought i'd mention it.
133. I didn't use any sealant, just put them it.
134-136. No comments.
137. I left my plastic sheath on. I may need to come off in your install. But I didn't.
138-143. No comments.
144. The instructions that came with the kit, had this step done eailer in the process. That's not a bad idea. Remember all your doing is extending the sensor wire, not removing it. Cut wisely. You might want to consider soldering it.
145-149. No comments.
My post install problems:
I cut my o-ring on the oil separator box. Had to replace it to fix a small oil leak. I also cut an o-ring on one of the injectors. Don't do this, it's a pain finding a new one. It's hard to change the tension in the alternator pulley. If you find a good way to do it, let me know. At first the SC made a slight whistle, this went away soon. If your car sounds much different, that's normal, it will. My car kind of sounded like a jet engine. The RS Akimoto intake I have really let's the blower whine come though. I also put the new plugs in, and retarded the timing to 9 degrees.
Enjoy!
Under boost on some cars the pressure will tend to suck oil out of the valve cover.
Actually oil vapor. This oil vapor goes into the SC it self right through the throttle body as from the valve cover.
Use a breather filter and place it on the valve cover, then plug up the other side on the intake pipe.
The photo - yes K&N Part number KNN-62-2470 available from summit racing for around $8.00.
As far as the closed loop goes, not a problem. The car was never designed with those pressures in mind, anyway, so we've already changed that. At least now it will suck as it should, rather than changing the direction of the airflow with the pressure the SC makes in the intake. A lot of people do this, and larry at endyn does it for a lot of his FI cars from what I understand.
Last Updated: 11/26/1999