Bunker's 2002 Road Star Warrior 
 Updated version of bike as of August, 2005. Earlier version of bike shown at bottom:
 
 List of mods and sources:
  • 110 big bore kit, cams, springs, adj. pushrods, billet pushrod tubes; Parts from Patrick Racing  Web
  • +1 intake valves, mild headwork & valve job; Thanks to John Gainey at PCW racing  Web
  • Homemade velocity stacks and K&N's
  • PCIII and custom map:  Thanks to Dave at Matt's Honda for the excellent dyno tuning  Web
  • V&H Propipe; Made best power and torque across the board using the stock baffle with no extra holes!
  • (No mod to rear exhaust manifold. Stock ECU)
  • 108 HP / 123 ft-lbs Torque, SAE net at rear wheel on conservative Dynojet dyno (see curves at bottom of page)
  • Spurgin' Oil Cooler from Motorcycle Innovations  Web
  • Mocal sandwich plate diverter from Racer's Parts  Web
  • Coil/sensor/LCV relocation plate from aluminum
  • Voltage regulator relocated
  • Painted edges of cylinder fins
  • Roadstar 5th gear swap
  • Front forks upgraded with high-perf. cartridges and R1 adjusters; Thanks to Mike at Traxxion Dynamics  Web
  • Custom built fully adjustable Penske rear shock; Thanks to Mike at Traxxion  Web and Penske 
  • Corbin fairing on custom aluminum brackets: Thanks to friend Jim Feil for the excellent welding
  • Custom PPG paint; Thanks to Autobody Supply Co. (Albany, NY) for the help and great service
  • Painting of bodywork; Thanks to friend Chuck Lewis for all the help
  • Custom built handlebars; Thanks to friends Dan Guay and Jim Feil for fabrication help and welding
  • Screw-on gas cap from Orient Express. Filler neck was opened up to provide access with the new handlebars.
  • Powdercoating of controls, engine parts and wheels and wheel grinding; Thanks to Lou at Carsmetics  Web
  • Custom stainless brakelines, black coated w/gold ends; Parts from Cyclebrakes  Web
  • 3 spoke mod and painting of rear pulley
  • High End seat purchased from Phats  Web
  • Kuryakyn mirrors w/integral turn signals
  • Heated Grips from Hotgrips  Web
  • Rear brake pedal, carrier bracket and reservoir mods
  • Painted many small parts
  • Custom mudguard/license holder
  • Taillight/turn signal mod from MD Wright  Web
  • Rerouting of wiring w/split loom covers on wires
  • EasyBrackets purchased from Classic Cruiser  Web
  • Saddlebags purchased from MotoLeather   Web
  • More info will be added as I think of it

    Thanks to the administrator, members and moderators at RSWarrior.com for the great exchange of ideas and help.

    Thanks to Jim Feil for all the great welding and help with fabrication... couldn't have done it without him.

    Special thanks to my good friend Chuck Lewis for painting, help with assembly, loaning tools, and major moral support when I needed it!

 
Most recent version of bike (and hopefully the last).  Corbin fairing is mounted with a set of custom aluminum brackets which also hold the stock headlight minus the bucket. Very time consuming mod, but the function is great. Fairing offers excellent wind protection to the chest and the neck without creating head turbulence. Provides a much more relaxed ride at higher speeds and is noticeably warmer in cold weather. A bit funky looking perhaps, but it's less prominent than the pics might indicate, and I prefer it to windshields in both looks and function.
 
 

Custom paint is a PPG color called Dark Red Maple Metallic.  The fine gold flake shows up in the sunshine.
 
 
 
 

Front view. Front tire is a 130/60

 Rear view. Rear tire shown is a 210:
 

Front view with headlight and running lights on:

 Bike in the middle of the build project:
 

Gold powdercoated wheel and billet end cap, brake rotor cover removed, recessed area of caliper bracket cut out:

 Modded brake reservoir relocated onto custom bracket:

 

Right side of new 110 inch motor, gold and black powdercoating, blackened fins, smoothed end cover, black pipes:

 Left side of motor- black and gold powder coating, black cyl fins, smoothed left end cover, "horn" cover, seat lock removed and smoothed left side cover:
 

"RamFlo" airfilter (non-functioning) mounted with simple bracket makes for a nice cover. Mesh is powdercoated gold. There is a the black vinyl piece behind it which effectively covers the FI wires and connectors:

 Spurgin' oil cooler, black rain gutter mesh in chin cowl, gold brake inserts to match gold wheels, black/gold braided brakelines
 

Modded rear pulley, lowered belt guard:

 Powdercoated controls, painted Kuryakyn mirrors (with integrated turn signal), Hi-Lo switch on custom bracket for Hotgrips heated grips:
 

Front forks modded by Traxxion have cartridge internals, rebound damping, and thumbscrew preload adjusters.

 Custom built Penske shock from Traxxion- Adjustable compression (on remote reservoir) & rebound (red/knurled nut) damping, preload (with radial bearing for easier turning) and overall length (stock length to +12mm)
 

Custom built handlebars:

 Finished handlebars, gold screw-on gas cap (needed to access filler neck with the greater pullback of the custom bars - Doh!)
   
 

New location of rectifier on rubber-mounted, triangular bracket.

 Rectifier keeps cool but is not particularly noticeable behind the mesh.
   

 

Brake pedal bracket with switch and horn cut off (unfinished). I then cut off the unneeded spindle mount tab on the brake pedal: (Old pic)

 Cleaner look of finished foot control with powder coating. (Original Indigo paint in this picture.)

 

Rear brake switch relocation bracket (unfinished). "J" shaped bracket is made from 3/4" wide x 1/8" thick aluminum.  Frame was drilled and tapped for 6 mm bolts (could also be held in place by hose clamps if preferred):

 

Small steel bracket bolts to master cylinder- once set, it does not require adjustment even if pedal adjustment is made. Larger spring is for pedal return tension:

 

2" air horns (velocity stacks) turned down from 2"OD aluminum pipe. Top ID is 47mm and tapers down to 42mm flush with throttle bodies. Bottom mount is a 47mm ID step to fit snug over throttle body mouth:

  

K&N RU-1400 (3.5" dia. x 4" high, 20* flange angle) filters fit over velocity stacks. About 7/8" of filter mounting flange was cut off to keep a low profile for clearance of gas tank. This offers pretty good filter area and should provide straight air flow and good velocity to maintain torque:

Custom made coil/LCV/sensor relocation bracket cut from aluminum and includes hole for temp sensor to be positioned between air filters:  

Temp sensor located close to air filter and mounted in a rubber grommet to insulate it from absorbing heat from the bracket. Also shown is fuel pressure regulator bracket in lower right:

 

Rear mudguard/license holder consists of 5 pieces; 3 brackets made from 1" angle aluminum bolt to underside of fender, a flat piece of light gauge aluminum sheet bolts up to the brackets, finally a heat-shaped piece cut from black vinyl truck mudflap covers the aluminum sheet. Stock plate illumination bulbs were relocated underneath to light up the plate at night. MD Wright tailight/turn signal mod cleans things up.  New York State allows just 6 letters on a plate (Old pic)

 Side view of mudguard/plate holder. (Old pics)

 

AIS removed and engine mount cut down (I later smoothed the corners too): (Old pic)

 'V' shield horn cover with top mounting flange cut off and black vinyl piece added to fit around engine mount and cover FI stuff. Vinyl and aluminum custom mounting bracket  are "Goop"ed onto the chrome horn cover. (Old pic)
 

Custom bracket relocates the regulator above front cylinder and below the coil/LCV relocation bracket. The thin bracket bolts to where the original coil bracket mounted: (Old pic)

 Clean look of the front frame area. No wire or hoses run down the downtubes. Clear turn signal lens also shown (Old pic)
 

Old look of bike with Rinehart staggered pipes and Radius bars:
(With kickstand "photoshopped" out:)
Old version of bike with small fairing.
     
Dynojet Horsepower And Torque curves; Top blue curve is final result after custom mapping and eliminating the extra holes in the Propipe baffle. Turns out that best power and torque across the whole range (after adjusting the map) was with NO extra holes in the stock baffle. Difference was at least 2 hp and 2 ft-lbs across the whole curve, after adjusting for best power each time. It should be noted that, contrary to popular assumption, reducing backpressure by adding more holes in the baffle actually richened up the A/F mixture, while adding backpressure leaned out the A/F ratio. 

Note: These are SAE numbers (as a comparison, the bottom curve with the Rinehart pipes yielded +2 hp and +2.5 ft-lbs when in STD mode)
     
Notice that there is no pronounced dip in the torque curve at the 2500 to 3000 rpm range that is often seen on Warrior motors that have bigger valves and throttle bodies. I probably gave up some peak horsepower but I feel that the combination I used (+1 intake valves, stock exhaust valves, and stock throttle bodies) allowed the motor to maintain excellent torque in the slow cruising range. The fat torque curve is also a tribute to the well designed cam profile from PR.

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