Return to 'Projects and Repairs'

Wooden Hull Repairs II - redecking

        The replacement of a 'canvas' deck on a wooden hull is relatively straightforward especially
since heat shrinkable Dacron fabrics have become available. The first step is to remove the old
decking. If the edges of the original deck have been finished with wooden trim steps, these should
be carefully separated using a thin blade or putty knife in order that they can be reattached in the
original fastening holes after the new deck is applied. The best method is to start at one end of the
deck and gradually pry back the batten to the point where needle-nosed pliers can be inserted
beneath the strip to pull the fastener free. This process is repeated until the entire strip is freed.

                   
                    Figure 1: Removing the trim strips holding the edges of the
                                  original deck.

        After the old deck has been removed and the exterior hull has been cleaned to remove any
remaining glue, etc. it is a good time to inspect and clean the interior of the hull and make any
necessary repairs. Before the new cover is applied, apply masking tape to the hull along the line
marking the lower edge of the trim battens (usually ~1/2" below the gunwale). This will prevent
getting fabric cement onto the hull when the new cover is attached. A piece of fabric several
inches larger than the deck opening is now cut and loosely taped onto the boat as smoothly as
possible. Don't worry about wrinkles at this point because these will be removed during the
final heat shrinking process. Several weights of heat shrinkable dacron as well as fabric cement
are available from Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Company in Griffin Georgia (1-800-831-2949).
The new deck shown was made from 1.8 oz. fabric.

                   
                    Figure 2: The new deck taped into place before gluing and
                                   heat shrinking. The tape marking the lower edge
                                   of the original deck lies under the fabric and is
                                   marked by the white arrow.

        Starting from one end of the deck, the taped fabric is now lifted from
the boat and fabric cement is brushed onto the hull between the gunwale and the
mask. The cloth is rubbed into the cement using your fingers. This is a sticky
process because the glue penetrates the fabric and ends up on your fingers. It
will rub off in a day or so - don't worry! Work in small sections, alternating between
the two sides of the boat and taking care not to get the glue onto the exposed
part of the deck.

        Allow the glue to dry for 30 minutes or so and then heat shrink the fabric
using a warm iron set at 250 degrees (~'Permanent Press'). Move the iron slowly
over the fabic from end to end until the material is uniformly taught. The fabric is
waterproofed by applying two coats of a satin-finish varnish. The satin finish markedly
reduces glare during rowing. The trim battens are now reapplied and the fabric is
trimmed by running a razor blade along the lower edge of the batten and peeling away
the cloth and masking tape. Voila! - you're finished.

                   
                    Figure 3: New deck after heat shrinking, varnishing, and
                                   application of trim battens before final trimming.